The Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2020 show, presented amidst the vibrant energy of Paris Fashion Week, wasn't simply a collection; it was a conversation. A dialogue between the revolutionary spirit of Yves Saint Laurent and the contemporary sensibilities of Anthony Vaccarello, his successor. While the fashion world constantly chases the “new,” this collection demonstrated the enduring power of revisiting and reimagining the classics, proving that true innovation often lies in reinterpreting the past. The runway, bathed in a dramatic, almost theatrical light, served as the stage for a masterful exploration of Saint Laurent's iconic legacy, culminating in a show that felt both deeply respectful and thrillingly modern.
This wasn't a mere regurgitation of archival pieces. Instead, Vaccarello meticulously deconstructed and reconstructed the hallmarks of Saint Laurent’s design philosophy, resulting in a collection that felt both familiar and utterly fresh. The central theme, unequivocally, was the powerful juxtaposition of two distinct yet intrinsically linked eras within Saint Laurent's oeuvre: the sharp, androgynous elegance of the Le Smoking suit and the bohemian, free-spirited allure of his Russian-inspired hippie deluxe collection. These two seemingly disparate styles, when interwoven through Vaccarello's lens, created a compelling narrative that resonated with the contemporary desire for both empowered femininity and effortless nonchalance.
The Legacy of Le Smoking: A Modern Reinvention
The Le Smoking suit, arguably Saint Laurent's most iconic contribution to fashion, served as the foundational element of the SS2020 collection. This wasn't about simply replicating the original; Vaccarello embraced the suit's inherent power and reimagined it for the modern woman. The sharp lines and tailored silhouettes remained, but the fabrics and styling evolved. Instead of the classic black tuxedo, we saw variations in rich textures – shimmering silks, luxurious velvets, and even unexpected pops of color. The silhouettes were subtly altered, with some suits featuring exaggerated shoulders, others boasting a more relaxed, almost slouchy fit. This wasn't about conforming to a rigid definition of femininity; it was about embracing its multifaceted nature.
The inclusion of Le Smoking variations wasn't limited to traditional suits. The spirit of the tuxedo was infused into other pieces, such as sleek jumpsuits and tailored trousers paired with delicate blouses or graphic tees. This demonstrated a clever understanding of the suit's versatility, extending its influence beyond its original context while retaining its core essence. The effect was a sophisticated blend of power and playfulness, reflecting the confident and independent spirit of the modern Saint Laurent woman. The colour palette, while predominantly black, was punctuated by flashes of vibrant hues – emerald green, sapphire blue, and fiery red – adding a touch of unexpected drama to the otherwise classic pieces. These bursts of colour served to highlight the collection’s inherent duality, emphasizing both the sharp tailoring and the inherent sensuality of the designs.
Hippie Deluxe Reimagined: Bohemian Rhapsody for the 21st Century
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